Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Run baby Run-Running with Bulls Pamplona

At first glance he was easy on the eyes. Black tank top long cut jean shorts, long dark eyelashes bleached golden by the sun at the ends. His skin the color of caramel looked good enough to eat. I knew we would be friends when he smiled at me and said he liked my glasses and that he was into American hip hop like De la Soul and Gangstarr. He walked to the next town that and I stayed, but I knew I would see him again. The next day I was walking down a 2,000 year old Roman road and he walked up with a big smile and remembered my name. Within minutes of walking together he mentioned San Fermin and the Running of the Bulls.

I said, "Let´s go."

He replied, "okay."

I said, "I´m serious."

He replied, "Me too."

Later that day Tiburon and I ran into a fellow pilgrim who had American hip hop on his phone and we sat outside in the mid day sun sipping wine and enjoying the music. Jay-Z had never sounded so good.

The next day we were on a train headed to Pamplona. We talked about family, love, and heartache. It felt like we were old friends. We fell asleep on the train hand in hand, our heads leaned against one another.

In Pamplona everyone was in bright white with red bandanna around the neck. I must say that white is not an easy color to wear, but Pamplona wears white well. Walking into the city we were taken in by a group of traveling kids and their dogs. They were living out of a big white van. We rested a while with them in the shade and had some drinks.

The first night we took to the street with a bottle of rum and a 2 liter of cola, which is referred to as botellon in Spain. The city was crawling with people. There were random  makeshift parades of people singing and charging like bulls. Around every corner was a different type of music. We talked with people, watched the fireworks and danced. At an outdoor area bumpin loud house music we befriended two Pamplonian girls who, after the music stopped playing at 6am, bought us hot bocadillos(sandwiches) and led us drunk and tired to the plaza de torres. We were falling asleep sitting up until the stadium filled completely with people chanting and doing the wave. Reminded me of Arkansas Razorback football games in Little Rock, but with even more gusto. On big screens around the stadium you could see the bulls running down the streets of Pamplona. As a bull would trampel someone the entire stadium would ohhh and  ahhhh as one. The energy of the place was infectious. As the bulls entered the stadium, we were standing and cheering along with everyone else. Behind the bulls a huge crowd of people entered the stadium ready to face the bulls. It´s brutal in the ring. A fat naked man got tossed around like a rag doll. And one man was left unconscious. I had always wanted to run, but it looked scary as hell. I was thinking I would need some training and a red miniskirt first.

After watching the bulls we got breakfast and slept under a tree in the shade for a couple hours. The next evening came and we met a guy who had run with the bulls, and he encouraged me to run. It didn´t take much to talk me into it. I knew I may never have the chance to do it again. And even though I was scared I knew I had to do it. We hung with out with our knew friend and some of his friends and drank vodka and listened to a cover band that was quite good. Eventually Tiburon and I made our way back to the outdoor house music from the night before so we could dance. At this point I only had a couple of hours until the bulls ran. Tiburon danced and I layed in the cold grass wrapped in my jacket and tried to get a little sleep. Soon the light of the next day began filling the sky and I knew it was time. Tiburon thought I was crazy. He had no desire to run and didn´t understand why I wanted to. I just had to, and somehow I knew I would be okay. We slowly began making our way down the encierro, the path the bulls take. I couldn´t believe what I was doing. I sipped rum and coke and used a good bit of Rescue Remedy to help calm the nerves. As we got closer to the stadium I was thinking I just  needed a friend to stand beside. Minutes later I heard a southern drawl and turned to see three huge men all in white with handle bar mustaches and beards( grown just for the run). They were from Texas a father and his two sons. 

"You runnin" they asked me.

"You bet I am."

They were all well over 6 feet a firefighter, a marine and papa bear with his glowing white hair. I knew I was in good hands. I handed my things to T and gave him a great big hug. I knew I might not see him again. As he walked away the Texas boys asked if he really wasn´t going to run. Nope not even slightly tempted.

The Texas boys stuck me in a corner of a store opening and I was just fine with that. I had never been so glad I was a woman. A grown man couldn´t exactly push me off the wall or out of the corner.The police kept moving us back and forth down the street and every time the Texas boys made sure I had my spot in the corner. Suddenly people began running around the corner away from the stadium. No one knew what was going on. The Texas boys followed their English friends who said we would have to loop back around and up the street again. We all began running down the street paralell to the encierro. The streets were slick with grease. If you´ve ever been in the kitchen of a BBQ restaurant you know what I´m talking about. And since I had worked in a BBQ restaurant for years I was good at this.  As we were running I spoted a restroom and I  couldn´t hold it any longer.  I ran inside knowing I would lose my friends. It was the longest pee of my life!  To my great surprise Papa bear was waiting for me outside. We ran together looking for a way back to the encierro. Each street we passed was blocked. I was getting pissed I thought we had made a mistake and may not be able to run. We came to another street and I saw an opening in the blockaide. The four of us climbed through the blockaide. We got to the street and it was packed shoulder to shoulder. It was hot and the air was tense. I led us through the crownd until we could move no further. Papa bear always kept his hand on my shoulder making sure I was okay.

We had 15 minutes. Everyone around me was a foreigner, mostly from the Sountern United States(we´re a crazy bunch).  Some people were laughing and chanting and some were so scared they could only stare out and pray they would be okay.  We all swapped the stories we had heard and our strategies. These were to be the biggest bulls yet.  Maybe next time I needed a thrill I would skydive or something! You could see the sweat beading up on everyone´s brows. I just kept using the Rescue Remedy and telling myself my body is resistant to all bulls and I run like the wind. The fact that I had only slept 3 hours in two days and had been up drinking all night I tried to block from my mind.

Finally, the police let us go and we ran to our desired positons on the wall. It was like being in a war zone running for cover. We were able to make it back to our original spot near the stadium. A couple from Missouri waited there with us. I was glad I wasn´t the only woman crazy enough to be doing this.  We had only two minutes. "My body is resistant to all bulls and I run like the wind." I kept repeating it over and over. I dumped everything out of my pockets. I didn´t care what it was. I didn´t want anything to get in the way of my running. I heard the first shot go off and I knew the bulls were on the street. Crowds of people began running past. I couldn´t see a thing.  My plan was to run when I saw a bull. I had my camera out filming like an idiot when papa bear began yelling, "there they are go go go!" And he gives me a shove. Oh shit I thougt and began running while trying to stuff my camera into my pants. A bull runs quickly past me, it only lasted a second. Luckily he wasn´t intersted in me.  Then it was only people running beside me falling and pushing. I took papa bears advice and stayed close to the wall and kept my ears open for the sound of hoves. I made it into the stadium and was immediately smashed hard against everyone as the second round of bulls came running in. I found a place near the wall, in case I needed to jump over it, and watched as the bull charged at people only feet from me. One guy from Louisiana pulled the bulls tail and swung him around and around. Soon after he was beaten in the face right on top of me. I was knocked over the wall and would have landed on my head had the people behind me not held me up. I had my camera out recording at the time and it´s all on film. The experience was incredble a high like no other. If I can face bulls I can face anythings. I have to go for now stayed tuned for the post bull running celebration coming when i find another cheap computer to use

Bliss 1/2 way to Santiago

From July 7th ish

If you follow your bliss, you put yourself on a kind of track, that has been there all the while, waiting for you, and the life you ought to be living is the one your are living.  Joseph Campbell

It seems that I have nothing but time these days. A very new feeling for me. I have been sitting pool side, eating bocadillos and gazpacho. I met the Ruru´s a few days ago. They are an inspiring couple who biked down the Camino and are waking back up it to Pamplona to see the running of the bulls. They travel the world and make and save money while they do it. They do this in various ways(all legal).They definately think outside the box. They encouraged me to get my shears and cut hair as I walk. And why not? They would have been my first two clients if I had shears.

My friend Jean, a retired woman from Canada, who sold her house and most of her possesions, put the rest in storage and came to the Camino. Her daugther thinks she´s lost her mind, but Jean is happier than ever. Jean said the nicest thing. She said your just going to have the best time on the Camino because you´re so open to everything. Yes I am. After chatting with Jean I walked over to my new singing group and sang on the plaza outside the Alburgue. There was a woman in her 70´s singing and dancing along with us. There were local kids lined up on their bikes around all of us. The woman hushed everyone and broke out in the worst acapello. We all politely listened. She went on for so long I had time to run up to my bed grab my camera and get some of it on video. Her daugther finall stopped her. It was hilarious. Maybe she drank a little too much of the wine being passed along!

Friday, July 8, 2011

Fireworks...Burgos 490 km to Santiago

June 29th, 2011

Slowing down has been such a gift. I feel better, look better, and I´m able to actually read about and enjoy what I´m walking pass. Enrico is gone. After the three 30k days I had to leave the pack I started with. I tried to find him the night before I knew I would not end up in the same town as he. I checked his alburgue, but he was out taking photos. Giovanni and Luigi and I all hung out for awile, but Enrico never showed up and I had to get back before curfew. This is what life was like before cell phones! I enjoy the suspense. I swear I heard his laugh, but I couldn´t tell where it was coming from. I miss that laugh already. But I´m in Burgos today, there´s  a feista, and it´s tapas for dinner tonight!

Later...

My heart is filled with butterflies and I want to run not walk. I´m laying in bed contemplating to stay or to go. My mind is racing with thoughts of money, love, and security. After weighing all the options, I know I can´t get on that plane.  I want to stay. I love travelling and moving. I´m trying to work out the money part. I believe in the possibility of staying here bringing me more money and happiness than ever before.

At the moment I decided to stay in Spain fireworks began shooting through the night sky. My confirmation. It will all work out. I stood for a long time watching out of the second story of the alburgue. Feelings of peace were all around me. My heart ´s on fire.

Everyone has said I would meet someone, fall in love, and never return home. I have met someone and it´s myself and she´s screaming to go be free.

Hornillos 471 km to Santiago

I woke up on my own after a good nights rest. I had a quiet breakfast. I checked the bed 2 times, I kept having the feeling that I left something. But I didn´t see anything so I slowly climbed the upward rising gravel path and was back onto the infamous Meseta where the golden wheat fields touch the crystal blue sky. I have heard grumblings about how hot and boring the meseta would be. But I like it. 5k down the road there was an Alburgue 100m off the road. I would usually pass it by in favor of one closer to the road, but I decided to go anyways. It was a little piece of heaven. In a place with no shade, it had a garden full of tall trees. On one side there was a rounded stone bench tucked into a small hill and a stream running through the middle of it all. The stream is said to have healing powers, and pilgrims, from long ago to now, soak their broken feet in it. Man I was wishing I had stayed there last night, but I thought  no I needed to walk further than 5ks.

The hospitaleros had left coffee, sugar, and milk out for visitors. I don´t usually drink coffee, but I decided to partake. As I went to leave a donation I realized I had left my money belt 6k back in the town I had slept in. I remembered leaving it under my pillow. It had all my money, my credit card, and my passport in it. But I didn´t freak out I knew it would be there. But now I would stay at this place, and I would have to let go of Mille who planned to walk a few towns ahead that day. This was a gift telling me it was okay to slow down and to be alone. I walked the 6k to get my money belt and 6k back to my little piece of heaven. I got to walk the Meseta 3x that day. The peace and tranquility of it all was much needed.

Altapuerca 511 kms to Santiago

From June 29th
Mille and I started our walks at different times today. We have been doing this and then meeting at break points and chatting. After lunch I was  walking alone down a gravel path that  looked bleached white. Pine trees were thick on  each side of me. It was silent except for the occasional bird chirping.
I was wearing my newly acquired straw hat with cheetah print scarf wrapped around the outside. As I was walking a comes a guy on a bike "buen camino" we both say, then he stops 10 feet in front of me. He starts pumping up his tire. I notice it´s the guy I saw earlier at San Juan de Ortega. Tall, thin, with piercing blue eyes and disheveled black hair. It seems he has a slow leak in one of his tires. We talk for a moment and I wish him luck with his bike. He rides on  saying he may see me sooner than later. Sure enough a few minutes later, I catch up to him again pumping air into his tire. I´m just cracking up at this point and ask him to please forgive me for laughing at his misfortune. I walk past and he rides up beside me.  He wants to wait to change the tube until the next town so he pushes his bike and we walk and talk for some time. He´s from Manchester(best accent ever). Just graduated college where he did his thesis on a pilgrimage in England, which is where he ran across the Camino in Spain. He´s doing the Camino during his summer break then back to the UK to get his masters in international business. He can´t be a day over 22. 

We had a great time laughing at ourselves and our inability to speak Spanish well. He´s a quick witted man.  I eventually sat with him while he changed the tire, and we walked to the next town and stopped for a break. You could feel the attraction when we looked into each others eyes. He threatened to take me all the way to Burgos with him. But, alas, it was time to let him go. We waved goodbye, but not without him breaking down one last time in front of me. We were both smiling ear to ear and cracking up. I considered going to Burgos one last time, but that´s not what I wanted just then. There was a pep in my step as I walked the couple of kilometers to my stop for the night.

Villafranca De Oca-Slowing down

From June 27th

Life is wonderful. I´m in the Spanish country side surrounded by huge rolling green hills. It´s one of the nicest Alburgue´s I´ve stayed in. It´s a old pirlgrim´s hospital that´s been converted to a hotel. The owner of the hotel has walked the camino several times and wanted to give something back. He has done just that. It´s fancy.  With stone wall around the place and tall ceiling´s with chandeliers hanging from them.  I´m looking out over the huge cathedral with bell tower and clock watching  rain blow across the village. Every town has a church no matter the size. The population of this truck stop town couldn´t be over 100, yet the church and hotel are huge. Reminders of how popular this walk has been for hundreds of years. From high above in the sitting area, I´m watching  rain blow across the village, out of wall sized glass windows.  The thunder is shaking the whole place, and we had dinner by candelight because the electricity went out. It is very peaceful here so glad I got off the main pace.

Monday, July 4, 2011

Belorado

From June 26th, 2011
I started off yesterday before daylight. I wanted to get an early start so I could finish early and get some rest. But as fate would have it that didn´t happen. It was dark and we missed an arrow and ended up walking to the N-120. It added another few kilometers and I had yet another nearly 30k day. I´m staying at an alburgue with a nice pool and yet I´m too tired to enjoy it. Santo Domingo-too tired to walk around to see it. This is seeming more and more like my life back home. I push myself too hard and don´t have time to enjoy life or all the lovely people in it.

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Santo Domingo 361 miles to Santiago/ 582km

From June 25thish, 2011

Today was a hard day. My feet are hurting. The past 2 days were 30 k days. It´s hot and there is little shade. With only 1 k to go I could hardly take another step, my feet ached! A group of pilgrims gave me water and I decided to stop and take a rest. A French man, who spoke no English, stopped and feed me lunch and more water. It gave me the strength I needed to continue on. I´m in the Alburgue now. It is a nice facility, very new. The offer an on sight medic, full kitchen, leather couches, t.v., and there´s a hen and rooster in the back yard. Which are for the nearby church and pertain to local legend of the Camino. Now I will rest and get an early start tomorrow as to avoid the afternoon sun.

Today I got rid of bobby pins and extra ponytail holders.

dopo...later

I sit in the warm evening air sipping a beer and listening to music. The bell tower of the cathedral  is  glowing in the night behind us. The vending machines here sell beer and wine. A wine bottle drops down just like a bag of  M a& M´s!  It´s also not uncommon for the alburgue´s to sell wine and beer. The wine is cheap and good. I could get used to this.  I´m in the company of an Italian, Polish, German, and Spanish man. We are all communicating well, a gift only the Camino can give. A few hours rest and the company of fellow pilgrims and I´m feeling ready to face the day tomorrow. Enrico gave me a picture he drew from his journal. It shows the world with with an eye in it and a planet with wings(him) flying towards it.  He says he wants to touch all of the world. Me too. Me too.

Outside of Logroño

From June 24th, 2011

Days are now marked by the city I´m in not the day or date. It´s hard to remember how long I´ve been walking or that I have a destination. Each day is marked by how many kilometers, how many fountains, and what is the alburgue like.

I saw kids protesting in Larassona last night. There were tents and signs set up in the town square, and I saw a large group of people yelling and carrying signs, but I went the other way. I was too tired to deal with that. It was yet another fiesta that night, people were everywhere, wearing trendy clothes and drinking. I heard police on the bull horn  and drunkin ranting at 5 am. When I walked out of the town at 6 am, I saw a group of young people slowly staggering  home. They were nearly carrying one girl  who could hardly stand. I just smiled and thought man I´ve been there before. Enrico(with a c not a q) and I walked and talked yesterday morning and we were able to communicate quite well, mostly because he´s learning English lightening fast. He says I don´t like English, but for Nikki I learn. I´m learning Italian. Mille, Enrico and I always joke were speaking Ispanglish, and other various combos of the words. Haha he told me he loved me, but he meant like. A little lost in translation. I had said I love pizza, little bit different use of the word. I think he asked me to come visit Rome. Yes, thank you very much I would love to come to Rome. That´s a no brainer.

I got eaten alive by bed bugs last night and a sunburn, but other than that my body is great. I am strong.

Ran into my Irish friends again yesterday. I never stop laughing when they´re around. Such a fun group of guys. One of them always give me candy every time he see´s me then ask "didn´t your mother tell you not to take candy from strange men." I love it. I called him  a naughty man and he said "why do you think I´m doing the Camino."

songs of the moment- "we will we wil walk you walk you" and from my friend Holly from Canada "i got 99 problems but a cow ain´t one"


who needs an i pod when my imagination provide´s all the music i need!