June 29th, 2011
Slowing down has been such a gift. I feel better, look better, and I´m able to actually read about and enjoy what I´m walking pass. Enrico is gone. After the three 30k days I had to leave the pack I started with. I tried to find him the night before I knew I would not end up in the same town as he. I checked his alburgue, but he was out taking photos. Giovanni and Luigi and I all hung out for awile, but Enrico never showed up and I had to get back before curfew. This is what life was like before cell phones! I enjoy the suspense. I swear I heard his laugh, but I couldn´t tell where it was coming from. I miss that laugh already. But I´m in Burgos today, there´s a feista, and it´s tapas for dinner tonight!
Later...
My heart is filled with butterflies and I want to run not walk. I´m laying in bed contemplating to stay or to go. My mind is racing with thoughts of money, love, and security. After weighing all the options, I know I can´t get on that plane. I want to stay. I love travelling and moving. I´m trying to work out the money part. I believe in the possibility of staying here bringing me more money and happiness than ever before.
At the moment I decided to stay in Spain fireworks began shooting through the night sky. My confirmation. It will all work out. I stood for a long time watching out of the second story of the alburgue. Feelings of peace were all around me. My heart ´s on fire.
Everyone has said I would meet someone, fall in love, and never return home. I have met someone and it´s myself and she´s screaming to go be free.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Hornillos 471 km to Santiago
I woke up on my own after a good nights rest. I had a quiet breakfast. I checked the bed 2 times, I kept having the feeling that I left something. But I didn´t see anything so I slowly climbed the upward rising gravel path and was back onto the infamous Meseta where the golden wheat fields touch the crystal blue sky. I have heard grumblings about how hot and boring the meseta would be. But I like it. 5k down the road there was an Alburgue 100m off the road. I would usually pass it by in favor of one closer to the road, but I decided to go anyways. It was a little piece of heaven. In a place with no shade, it had a garden full of tall trees. On one side there was a rounded stone bench tucked into a small hill and a stream running through the middle of it all. The stream is said to have healing powers, and pilgrims, from long ago to now, soak their broken feet in it. Man I was wishing I had stayed there last night, but I thought no I needed to walk further than 5ks.
The hospitaleros had left coffee, sugar, and milk out for visitors. I don´t usually drink coffee, but I decided to partake. As I went to leave a donation I realized I had left my money belt 6k back in the town I had slept in. I remembered leaving it under my pillow. It had all my money, my credit card, and my passport in it. But I didn´t freak out I knew it would be there. But now I would stay at this place, and I would have to let go of Mille who planned to walk a few towns ahead that day. This was a gift telling me it was okay to slow down and to be alone. I walked the 6k to get my money belt and 6k back to my little piece of heaven. I got to walk the Meseta 3x that day. The peace and tranquility of it all was much needed.
The hospitaleros had left coffee, sugar, and milk out for visitors. I don´t usually drink coffee, but I decided to partake. As I went to leave a donation I realized I had left my money belt 6k back in the town I had slept in. I remembered leaving it under my pillow. It had all my money, my credit card, and my passport in it. But I didn´t freak out I knew it would be there. But now I would stay at this place, and I would have to let go of Mille who planned to walk a few towns ahead that day. This was a gift telling me it was okay to slow down and to be alone. I walked the 6k to get my money belt and 6k back to my little piece of heaven. I got to walk the Meseta 3x that day. The peace and tranquility of it all was much needed.
Altapuerca 511 kms to Santiago
From June 29th
Mille and I started our walks at different times today. We have been doing this and then meeting at break points and chatting. After lunch I was walking alone down a gravel path that looked bleached white. Pine trees were thick on each side of me. It was silent except for the occasional bird chirping.
I was wearing my newly acquired straw hat with cheetah print scarf wrapped around the outside. As I was walking a comes a guy on a bike "buen camino" we both say, then he stops 10 feet in front of me. He starts pumping up his tire. I notice it´s the guy I saw earlier at San Juan de Ortega. Tall, thin, with piercing blue eyes and disheveled black hair. It seems he has a slow leak in one of his tires. We talk for a moment and I wish him luck with his bike. He rides on saying he may see me sooner than later. Sure enough a few minutes later, I catch up to him again pumping air into his tire. I´m just cracking up at this point and ask him to please forgive me for laughing at his misfortune. I walk past and he rides up beside me. He wants to wait to change the tube until the next town so he pushes his bike and we walk and talk for some time. He´s from Manchester(best accent ever). Just graduated college where he did his thesis on a pilgrimage in England, which is where he ran across the Camino in Spain. He´s doing the Camino during his summer break then back to the UK to get his masters in international business. He can´t be a day over 22.
We had a great time laughing at ourselves and our inability to speak Spanish well. He´s a quick witted man. I eventually sat with him while he changed the tire, and we walked to the next town and stopped for a break. You could feel the attraction when we looked into each others eyes. He threatened to take me all the way to Burgos with him. But, alas, it was time to let him go. We waved goodbye, but not without him breaking down one last time in front of me. We were both smiling ear to ear and cracking up. I considered going to Burgos one last time, but that´s not what I wanted just then. There was a pep in my step as I walked the couple of kilometers to my stop for the night.
Mille and I started our walks at different times today. We have been doing this and then meeting at break points and chatting. After lunch I was walking alone down a gravel path that looked bleached white. Pine trees were thick on each side of me. It was silent except for the occasional bird chirping.
I was wearing my newly acquired straw hat with cheetah print scarf wrapped around the outside. As I was walking a comes a guy on a bike "buen camino" we both say, then he stops 10 feet in front of me. He starts pumping up his tire. I notice it´s the guy I saw earlier at San Juan de Ortega. Tall, thin, with piercing blue eyes and disheveled black hair. It seems he has a slow leak in one of his tires. We talk for a moment and I wish him luck with his bike. He rides on saying he may see me sooner than later. Sure enough a few minutes later, I catch up to him again pumping air into his tire. I´m just cracking up at this point and ask him to please forgive me for laughing at his misfortune. I walk past and he rides up beside me. He wants to wait to change the tube until the next town so he pushes his bike and we walk and talk for some time. He´s from Manchester(best accent ever). Just graduated college where he did his thesis on a pilgrimage in England, which is where he ran across the Camino in Spain. He´s doing the Camino during his summer break then back to the UK to get his masters in international business. He can´t be a day over 22.
We had a great time laughing at ourselves and our inability to speak Spanish well. He´s a quick witted man. I eventually sat with him while he changed the tire, and we walked to the next town and stopped for a break. You could feel the attraction when we looked into each others eyes. He threatened to take me all the way to Burgos with him. But, alas, it was time to let him go. We waved goodbye, but not without him breaking down one last time in front of me. We were both smiling ear to ear and cracking up. I considered going to Burgos one last time, but that´s not what I wanted just then. There was a pep in my step as I walked the couple of kilometers to my stop for the night.
Villafranca De Oca-Slowing down
From June 27th
Life is wonderful. I´m in the Spanish country side surrounded by huge rolling green hills. It´s one of the nicest Alburgue´s I´ve stayed in. It´s a old pirlgrim´s hospital that´s been converted to a hotel. The owner of the hotel has walked the camino several times and wanted to give something back. He has done just that. It´s fancy. With stone wall around the place and tall ceiling´s with chandeliers hanging from them. I´m looking out over the huge cathedral with bell tower and clock watching rain blow across the village. Every town has a church no matter the size. The population of this truck stop town couldn´t be over 100, yet the church and hotel are huge. Reminders of how popular this walk has been for hundreds of years. From high above in the sitting area, I´m watching rain blow across the village, out of wall sized glass windows. The thunder is shaking the whole place, and we had dinner by candelight because the electricity went out. It is very peaceful here so glad I got off the main pace.
Life is wonderful. I´m in the Spanish country side surrounded by huge rolling green hills. It´s one of the nicest Alburgue´s I´ve stayed in. It´s a old pirlgrim´s hospital that´s been converted to a hotel. The owner of the hotel has walked the camino several times and wanted to give something back. He has done just that. It´s fancy. With stone wall around the place and tall ceiling´s with chandeliers hanging from them. I´m looking out over the huge cathedral with bell tower and clock watching rain blow across the village. Every town has a church no matter the size. The population of this truck stop town couldn´t be over 100, yet the church and hotel are huge. Reminders of how popular this walk has been for hundreds of years. From high above in the sitting area, I´m watching rain blow across the village, out of wall sized glass windows. The thunder is shaking the whole place, and we had dinner by candelight because the electricity went out. It is very peaceful here so glad I got off the main pace.
Monday, July 4, 2011
Belorado
From June 26th, 2011
I started off yesterday before daylight. I wanted to get an early start so I could finish early and get some rest. But as fate would have it that didn´t happen. It was dark and we missed an arrow and ended up walking to the N-120. It added another few kilometers and I had yet another nearly 30k day. I´m staying at an alburgue with a nice pool and yet I´m too tired to enjoy it. Santo Domingo-too tired to walk around to see it. This is seeming more and more like my life back home. I push myself too hard and don´t have time to enjoy life or all the lovely people in it.
I started off yesterday before daylight. I wanted to get an early start so I could finish early and get some rest. But as fate would have it that didn´t happen. It was dark and we missed an arrow and ended up walking to the N-120. It added another few kilometers and I had yet another nearly 30k day. I´m staying at an alburgue with a nice pool and yet I´m too tired to enjoy it. Santo Domingo-too tired to walk around to see it. This is seeming more and more like my life back home. I push myself too hard and don´t have time to enjoy life or all the lovely people in it.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Santo Domingo 361 miles to Santiago/ 582km
From June 25thish, 2011
Today was a hard day. My feet are hurting. The past 2 days were 30 k days. It´s hot and there is little shade. With only 1 k to go I could hardly take another step, my feet ached! A group of pilgrims gave me water and I decided to stop and take a rest. A French man, who spoke no English, stopped and feed me lunch and more water. It gave me the strength I needed to continue on. I´m in the Alburgue now. It is a nice facility, very new. The offer an on sight medic, full kitchen, leather couches, t.v., and there´s a hen and rooster in the back yard. Which are for the nearby church and pertain to local legend of the Camino. Now I will rest and get an early start tomorrow as to avoid the afternoon sun.
Today I got rid of bobby pins and extra ponytail holders.
dopo...later
I sit in the warm evening air sipping a beer and listening to music. The bell tower of the cathedral is glowing in the night behind us. The vending machines here sell beer and wine. A wine bottle drops down just like a bag of M a& M´s! It´s also not uncommon for the alburgue´s to sell wine and beer. The wine is cheap and good. I could get used to this. I´m in the company of an Italian, Polish, German, and Spanish man. We are all communicating well, a gift only the Camino can give. A few hours rest and the company of fellow pilgrims and I´m feeling ready to face the day tomorrow. Enrico gave me a picture he drew from his journal. It shows the world with with an eye in it and a planet with wings(him) flying towards it. He says he wants to touch all of the world. Me too. Me too.
Today was a hard day. My feet are hurting. The past 2 days were 30 k days. It´s hot and there is little shade. With only 1 k to go I could hardly take another step, my feet ached! A group of pilgrims gave me water and I decided to stop and take a rest. A French man, who spoke no English, stopped and feed me lunch and more water. It gave me the strength I needed to continue on. I´m in the Alburgue now. It is a nice facility, very new. The offer an on sight medic, full kitchen, leather couches, t.v., and there´s a hen and rooster in the back yard. Which are for the nearby church and pertain to local legend of the Camino. Now I will rest and get an early start tomorrow as to avoid the afternoon sun.
Today I got rid of bobby pins and extra ponytail holders.
dopo...later
I sit in the warm evening air sipping a beer and listening to music. The bell tower of the cathedral is glowing in the night behind us. The vending machines here sell beer and wine. A wine bottle drops down just like a bag of M a& M´s! It´s also not uncommon for the alburgue´s to sell wine and beer. The wine is cheap and good. I could get used to this. I´m in the company of an Italian, Polish, German, and Spanish man. We are all communicating well, a gift only the Camino can give. A few hours rest and the company of fellow pilgrims and I´m feeling ready to face the day tomorrow. Enrico gave me a picture he drew from his journal. It shows the world with with an eye in it and a planet with wings(him) flying towards it. He says he wants to touch all of the world. Me too. Me too.
Outside of Logroño
From June 24th, 2011
Days are now marked by the city I´m in not the day or date. It´s hard to remember how long I´ve been walking or that I have a destination. Each day is marked by how many kilometers, how many fountains, and what is the alburgue like.
I saw kids protesting in Larassona last night. There were tents and signs set up in the town square, and I saw a large group of people yelling and carrying signs, but I went the other way. I was too tired to deal with that. It was yet another fiesta that night, people were everywhere, wearing trendy clothes and drinking. I heard police on the bull horn and drunkin ranting at 5 am. When I walked out of the town at 6 am, I saw a group of young people slowly staggering home. They were nearly carrying one girl who could hardly stand. I just smiled and thought man I´ve been there before. Enrico(with a c not a q) and I walked and talked yesterday morning and we were able to communicate quite well, mostly because he´s learning English lightening fast. He says I don´t like English, but for Nikki I learn. I´m learning Italian. Mille, Enrico and I always joke were speaking Ispanglish, and other various combos of the words. Haha he told me he loved me, but he meant like. A little lost in translation. I had said I love pizza, little bit different use of the word. I think he asked me to come visit Rome. Yes, thank you very much I would love to come to Rome. That´s a no brainer.
I got eaten alive by bed bugs last night and a sunburn, but other than that my body is great. I am strong.
Ran into my Irish friends again yesterday. I never stop laughing when they´re around. Such a fun group of guys. One of them always give me candy every time he see´s me then ask "didn´t your mother tell you not to take candy from strange men." I love it. I called him a naughty man and he said "why do you think I´m doing the Camino."
songs of the moment- "we will we wil walk you walk you" and from my friend Holly from Canada "i got 99 problems but a cow ain´t one"
who needs an i pod when my imagination provide´s all the music i need!
Days are now marked by the city I´m in not the day or date. It´s hard to remember how long I´ve been walking or that I have a destination. Each day is marked by how many kilometers, how many fountains, and what is the alburgue like.
I saw kids protesting in Larassona last night. There were tents and signs set up in the town square, and I saw a large group of people yelling and carrying signs, but I went the other way. I was too tired to deal with that. It was yet another fiesta that night, people were everywhere, wearing trendy clothes and drinking. I heard police on the bull horn and drunkin ranting at 5 am. When I walked out of the town at 6 am, I saw a group of young people slowly staggering home. They were nearly carrying one girl who could hardly stand. I just smiled and thought man I´ve been there before. Enrico(with a c not a q) and I walked and talked yesterday morning and we were able to communicate quite well, mostly because he´s learning English lightening fast. He says I don´t like English, but for Nikki I learn. I´m learning Italian. Mille, Enrico and I always joke were speaking Ispanglish, and other various combos of the words. Haha he told me he loved me, but he meant like. A little lost in translation. I had said I love pizza, little bit different use of the word. I think he asked me to come visit Rome. Yes, thank you very much I would love to come to Rome. That´s a no brainer.
I got eaten alive by bed bugs last night and a sunburn, but other than that my body is great. I am strong.
Ran into my Irish friends again yesterday. I never stop laughing when they´re around. Such a fun group of guys. One of them always give me candy every time he see´s me then ask "didn´t your mother tell you not to take candy from strange men." I love it. I called him a naughty man and he said "why do you think I´m doing the Camino."
songs of the moment- "we will we wil walk you walk you" and from my friend Holly from Canada "i got 99 problems but a cow ain´t one"
who needs an i pod when my imagination provide´s all the music i need!
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