I have posted 3 new post, some with pictures. Some of the very first post now how pictures as well. Hope you enjoy.
nikki
Monday, October 24, 2011
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Bigger and better
I am currently in the process of moving my blog to Wordpress.com and adding photos. Bear with me, the end result will be worth the wait!
Thursday, September 22, 2011
Thursday, August 25, 2011
Little critters that bite in the night....BED BUGS! Sarria -110k to Santiago
I awoke in the middle of the night itching from head-to-toe, it couldn´t be, I couldn´t be being bitten by bed bugs...again. I tried to go back to sleep, but the itching was instaitable. I got up and looked in the mirror, but the light was too bright and I couldn´t see a thing. I grabbed my sleeping bag and took it to couch in the chill out area of the alburgue. I searched my sleeping bag, but didn´t see any bed bugs. I slept on the couch for a few more hours until I was awakened around 4am by the first pilgrim eager to start her day. That day more than 20 welps from bed bugs would appreared on my body. I look like I have a disease. My left hand is swollen. Between the mosiquitos and bed bugs I feel eaten alive! I have cut all my nails down to nubs to keep from scratching til I bleed.
Later the next day, I tell the lady who runs the next alburgue, also called the hospitalera, in La Faba, what has happend and together we seperated all my clothes to be washed and the rest we put in a bag to be sparyed with bug spray. I stripped down outside and changed into a lovely oversized red shirt with a bedazzled heart in the center and a baggy pair of khaki trousers. I was the picture of style and grace! Hell I didn´t even have shoes on. But I didn´t care one bit if it meant I wouldn´t be bitten again. I was so thankful I wanted to throw that woman in the air and give her a big hug and kiss! The scalding hot shower I took afterwards was multi-orgasmic. It was like christmas and my birthday, it took all the will power I had to make myself get out of the shower.Hot showers can be a rare occurance on the Camino. I don´t think I was bitten again that night, but it hard to tell.
Welcome to fucking Galicia...
I´m in the last province I will come to, and man have things changed. The first alburgue I came to yesterday was full, but was offering to let me sleep in the grass for $5. No Thanks. The rest of the alburgues were either full or way to expensive, and the next town was 10kilometers away. I was with my friend Pablo who I met in Montevanero. He´s German, but grew up in Spain. And he has a tent, but it´s illegal to put the tent up. What the hell do we do? Well, we were left with one good option. Sleep on the porch of the old stone cathedral. Ok I thought no big deal, until I realized the church is surrounded by graves. Yes it´s a cemetary and the graves are above ground mind you. I stood on the cold stones of the church and looked around, hardly able to catch my breath. Was I really about to sleep with dead people? All the scary movies I have heard about and seen were running through my head. Pablo kept trying to tell me about local legends of creatures that steal your soul if you look into their eyes. "Shut up Pablo!" This is not what I needed to hear. Ultimately, I did it. I slept with dead people. I was so cold and tired the dead people were the last thing on my mind. And at least they don´t snore! We awoke the next day after a fairly peaceful nights rest, considering it was in a cemetary, and realized their were graves on each side of us in the concrerte. So not only am I homeless, but I sleep with dead people!
I walked again today to find the one cheap alburgue full, so it looks like I´ll be sleeping outside again. I´m feeling a bit down today, but after two months of being on the Camino I can say that I have received more generousity and kindness than I could ever write on paper. And I have always had all that I needed. So i´m trying to be thank ful for all the blessings I have received in the past and the ones still to come as well. There are lesson´s to be learned in all things. So I will lay my head down tonight on my rolled up socks and be thankful that I´m healthy and without hunger.
Later the next day, I tell the lady who runs the next alburgue, also called the hospitalera, in La Faba, what has happend and together we seperated all my clothes to be washed and the rest we put in a bag to be sparyed with bug spray. I stripped down outside and changed into a lovely oversized red shirt with a bedazzled heart in the center and a baggy pair of khaki trousers. I was the picture of style and grace! Hell I didn´t even have shoes on. But I didn´t care one bit if it meant I wouldn´t be bitten again. I was so thankful I wanted to throw that woman in the air and give her a big hug and kiss! The scalding hot shower I took afterwards was multi-orgasmic. It was like christmas and my birthday, it took all the will power I had to make myself get out of the shower.Hot showers can be a rare occurance on the Camino. I don´t think I was bitten again that night, but it hard to tell.
Welcome to fucking Galicia...
I´m in the last province I will come to, and man have things changed. The first alburgue I came to yesterday was full, but was offering to let me sleep in the grass for $5. No Thanks. The rest of the alburgues were either full or way to expensive, and the next town was 10kilometers away. I was with my friend Pablo who I met in Montevanero. He´s German, but grew up in Spain. And he has a tent, but it´s illegal to put the tent up. What the hell do we do? Well, we were left with one good option. Sleep on the porch of the old stone cathedral. Ok I thought no big deal, until I realized the church is surrounded by graves. Yes it´s a cemetary and the graves are above ground mind you. I stood on the cold stones of the church and looked around, hardly able to catch my breath. Was I really about to sleep with dead people? All the scary movies I have heard about and seen were running through my head. Pablo kept trying to tell me about local legends of creatures that steal your soul if you look into their eyes. "Shut up Pablo!" This is not what I needed to hear. Ultimately, I did it. I slept with dead people. I was so cold and tired the dead people were the last thing on my mind. And at least they don´t snore! We awoke the next day after a fairly peaceful nights rest, considering it was in a cemetary, and realized their were graves on each side of us in the concrerte. So not only am I homeless, but I sleep with dead people!
I walked again today to find the one cheap alburgue full, so it looks like I´ll be sleeping outside again. I´m feeling a bit down today, but after two months of being on the Camino I can say that I have received more generousity and kindness than I could ever write on paper. And I have always had all that I needed. So i´m trying to be thank ful for all the blessings I have received in the past and the ones still to come as well. There are lesson´s to be learned in all things. So I will lay my head down tonight on my rolled up socks and be thankful that I´m healthy and without hunger.
Thursday, August 18, 2011
i´m alive!
Hello! Sorry for my extended absence I stumbled upon Montevenero an eco village, or "hippie commune" as some would call it, 7 kilometers from the Camino. It was founded some 20 years ago by people, from many nations though mostly German. Many were from the Rainbow Gatherings in Europe, who wanted a place to live in community all year long. I planned on only staying only 1 day and was there for over 3 weeks. The village, built in the ruins of an older village that burned some 40 years ago, is tucked away between two mountains. It´s a quiet village where you may see a horse or donkey walking down the road, and the only sounds are of children playing and the guitars and drums people frequently sit and play. Their are no cars allowed. The only thing that runs on gas is the chainsaws used to cut the wood, though only allowed on the first Tuesday of the month. (Most of the wood is cut my hand)! The only electricity is powered by solar panels. But don´t think they are doing without, there is a bakery, ice cream shop, bar, and variety shop that sells jam, champagne made from roses, and liqour from honey. There is nearly no horizon in Montevenero. On all but one section all you see is the giant mountains you climb down to get there. You hear the people mention this frequently. Some believe this can leave you closed minded.
The water for the whole village of about 60 people, in the summer, flows naturallly from a couple of streams high in the mountains above the village. The people of the village, especially Teddy, have a beautiful relationship with this channel of water. Two times a week Teddy walks the length of the channel and notes the placement of each stone and blade of grass in relation to the flow of the water. It is a precious example of people working with nature, not against it.
If you wanted dinner you had to go get some firewood out of the woods first. The toilet was outdoors and consisted of a whole that you peed in, and if you pooped you had to cover it with grass, some of which I helped to cut by hand. In exchange for one amazing organic, and almost completely vegan meal a day, I helped in the garden, painted walls with kal, similar to plaster, and helped to clean the water filters in the channel. I also put myselft through a Spanish boot camp with the help of my American friend Sarah(yes i ran into another American from Oregan!) and Issy from Canada. Meeting them was such a blessing. I read Further Along The Road Less Traveled and Stillness Speaks, both reminded me that I´m a spiritual being on a spiritual journey. The reality that I could die tomorrow or even today has helped me to see the fleeting nature of all the things we hold so dear... how we look, what other people think of us, and protecting our precious egos at all costs! I have started asking for what I need and want. And speaking to people in Spanish without caring what I look like. Since leaving Montevenero I have made so many friends, I make new friends everywhere I go. The walls I have had around me are slowy dissloving with each hug and each hello I give and receive. Four people wanted to take pictures with me after meeting me today. Such a cool thing that my inner happiness is shining through and that in just a moment I´m able to share that with people. Their happiness helps to feed mine as well.
I bought shears a couple of weeks ago and have been cutting hair in exchange for money, food, and internet. I get to cut hair in warm air with beautiful green mountains surrounding me. I enjoy cutting hair again!
I have a little over 200 kilometers until Santiago, about 1/4 of what I started with, and if you couldn´t tell I´m in no hurry to get there. I´m actually more excited to see Finisterre, once believed to be the end of the world, and to see the ocean again. After this I have no idea what I´m doing. I live day to day moment to moment. When I get to Finnisterre I will choose then what to do next.
The water for the whole village of about 60 people, in the summer, flows naturallly from a couple of streams high in the mountains above the village. The people of the village, especially Teddy, have a beautiful relationship with this channel of water. Two times a week Teddy walks the length of the channel and notes the placement of each stone and blade of grass in relation to the flow of the water. It is a precious example of people working with nature, not against it.
If you wanted dinner you had to go get some firewood out of the woods first. The toilet was outdoors and consisted of a whole that you peed in, and if you pooped you had to cover it with grass, some of which I helped to cut by hand. In exchange for one amazing organic, and almost completely vegan meal a day, I helped in the garden, painted walls with kal, similar to plaster, and helped to clean the water filters in the channel. I also put myselft through a Spanish boot camp with the help of my American friend Sarah(yes i ran into another American from Oregan!) and Issy from Canada. Meeting them was such a blessing. I read Further Along The Road Less Traveled and Stillness Speaks, both reminded me that I´m a spiritual being on a spiritual journey. The reality that I could die tomorrow or even today has helped me to see the fleeting nature of all the things we hold so dear... how we look, what other people think of us, and protecting our precious egos at all costs! I have started asking for what I need and want. And speaking to people in Spanish without caring what I look like. Since leaving Montevenero I have made so many friends, I make new friends everywhere I go. The walls I have had around me are slowy dissloving with each hug and each hello I give and receive. Four people wanted to take pictures with me after meeting me today. Such a cool thing that my inner happiness is shining through and that in just a moment I´m able to share that with people. Their happiness helps to feed mine as well.
I bought shears a couple of weeks ago and have been cutting hair in exchange for money, food, and internet. I get to cut hair in warm air with beautiful green mountains surrounding me. I enjoy cutting hair again!
I have a little over 200 kilometers until Santiago, about 1/4 of what I started with, and if you couldn´t tell I´m in no hurry to get there. I´m actually more excited to see Finisterre, once believed to be the end of the world, and to see the ocean again. After this I have no idea what I´m doing. I live day to day moment to moment. When I get to Finnisterre I will choose then what to do next.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Run baby Run-Running with Bulls Pamplona
At first glance he was easy on the eyes. Black tank top long cut jean shorts, long dark eyelashes bleached golden by the sun at the ends. His skin the color of caramel looked good enough to eat. I knew we would be friends when he smiled at me and said he liked my glasses and that he was into American hip hop like De la Soul and Gangstarr. He walked to the next town that and I stayed, but I knew I would see him again. The next day I was walking down a 2,000 year old Roman road and he walked up with a big smile and remembered my name. Within minutes of walking together he mentioned San Fermin and the Running of the Bulls.
I said, "Let´s go."
He replied, "okay."
I said, "I´m serious."
He replied, "Me too."
Later that day Tiburon and I ran into a fellow pilgrim who had American hip hop on his phone and we sat outside in the mid day sun sipping wine and enjoying the music. Jay-Z had never sounded so good.
The next day we were on a train headed to Pamplona. We talked about family, love, and heartache. It felt like we were old friends. We fell asleep on the train hand in hand, our heads leaned against one another.
In Pamplona everyone was in bright white with red bandanna around the neck. I must say that white is not an easy color to wear, but Pamplona wears white well. Walking into the city we were taken in by a group of traveling kids and their dogs. They were living out of a big white van. We rested a while with them in the shade and had some drinks.
The first night we took to the street with a bottle of rum and a 2 liter of cola, which is referred to as botellon in Spain. The city was crawling with people. There were random makeshift parades of people singing and charging like bulls. Around every corner was a different type of music. We talked with people, watched the fireworks and danced. At an outdoor area bumpin loud house music we befriended two Pamplonian girls who, after the music stopped playing at 6am, bought us hot bocadillos(sandwiches) and led us drunk and tired to the plaza de torres. We were falling asleep sitting up until the stadium filled completely with people chanting and doing the wave. Reminded me of Arkansas Razorback football games in Little Rock, but with even more gusto. On big screens around the stadium you could see the bulls running down the streets of Pamplona. As a bull would trampel someone the entire stadium would ohhh and ahhhh as one. The energy of the place was infectious. As the bulls entered the stadium, we were standing and cheering along with everyone else. Behind the bulls a huge crowd of people entered the stadium ready to face the bulls. It´s brutal in the ring. A fat naked man got tossed around like a rag doll. And one man was left unconscious. I had always wanted to run, but it looked scary as hell. I was thinking I would need some training and a red miniskirt first.
After watching the bulls we got breakfast and slept under a tree in the shade for a couple hours. The next evening came and we met a guy who had run with the bulls, and he encouraged me to run. It didn´t take much to talk me into it. I knew I may never have the chance to do it again. And even though I was scared I knew I had to do it. We hung with out with our knew friend and some of his friends and drank vodka and listened to a cover band that was quite good. Eventually Tiburon and I made our way back to the outdoor house music from the night before so we could dance. At this point I only had a couple of hours until the bulls ran. Tiburon danced and I layed in the cold grass wrapped in my jacket and tried to get a little sleep. Soon the light of the next day began filling the sky and I knew it was time. Tiburon thought I was crazy. He had no desire to run and didn´t understand why I wanted to. I just had to, and somehow I knew I would be okay. We slowly began making our way down the encierro, the path the bulls take. I couldn´t believe what I was doing. I sipped rum and coke and used a good bit of Rescue Remedy to help calm the nerves. As we got closer to the stadium I was thinking I just needed a friend to stand beside. Minutes later I heard a southern drawl and turned to see three huge men all in white with handle bar mustaches and beards( grown just for the run). They were from Texas a father and his two sons.
"You runnin" they asked me.
"You bet I am."
They were all well over 6 feet a firefighter, a marine and papa bear with his glowing white hair. I knew I was in good hands. I handed my things to T and gave him a great big hug. I knew I might not see him again. As he walked away the Texas boys asked if he really wasn´t going to run. Nope not even slightly tempted.
The Texas boys stuck me in a corner of a store opening and I was just fine with that. I had never been so glad I was a woman. A grown man couldn´t exactly push me off the wall or out of the corner.The police kept moving us back and forth down the street and every time the Texas boys made sure I had my spot in the corner. Suddenly people began running around the corner away from the stadium. No one knew what was going on. The Texas boys followed their English friends who said we would have to loop back around and up the street again. We all began running down the street paralell to the encierro. The streets were slick with grease. If you´ve ever been in the kitchen of a BBQ restaurant you know what I´m talking about. And since I had worked in a BBQ restaurant for years I was good at this. As we were running I spoted a restroom and I couldn´t hold it any longer. I ran inside knowing I would lose my friends. It was the longest pee of my life! To my great surprise Papa bear was waiting for me outside. We ran together looking for a way back to the encierro. Each street we passed was blocked. I was getting pissed I thought we had made a mistake and may not be able to run. We came to another street and I saw an opening in the blockaide. The four of us climbed through the blockaide. We got to the street and it was packed shoulder to shoulder. It was hot and the air was tense. I led us through the crownd until we could move no further. Papa bear always kept his hand on my shoulder making sure I was okay.
We had 15 minutes. Everyone around me was a foreigner, mostly from the Sountern United States(we´re a crazy bunch). Some people were laughing and chanting and some were so scared they could only stare out and pray they would be okay. We all swapped the stories we had heard and our strategies. These were to be the biggest bulls yet. Maybe next time I needed a thrill I would skydive or something! You could see the sweat beading up on everyone´s brows. I just kept using the Rescue Remedy and telling myself my body is resistant to all bulls and I run like the wind. The fact that I had only slept 3 hours in two days and had been up drinking all night I tried to block from my mind.
Finally, the police let us go and we ran to our desired positons on the wall. It was like being in a war zone running for cover. We were able to make it back to our original spot near the stadium. A couple from Missouri waited there with us. I was glad I wasn´t the only woman crazy enough to be doing this. We had only two minutes. "My body is resistant to all bulls and I run like the wind." I kept repeating it over and over. I dumped everything out of my pockets. I didn´t care what it was. I didn´t want anything to get in the way of my running. I heard the first shot go off and I knew the bulls were on the street. Crowds of people began running past. I couldn´t see a thing. My plan was to run when I saw a bull. I had my camera out filming like an idiot when papa bear began yelling, "there they are go go go!" And he gives me a shove. Oh shit I thougt and began running while trying to stuff my camera into my pants. A bull runs quickly past me, it only lasted a second. Luckily he wasn´t intersted in me. Then it was only people running beside me falling and pushing. I took papa bears advice and stayed close to the wall and kept my ears open for the sound of hoves. I made it into the stadium and was immediately smashed hard against everyone as the second round of bulls came running in. I found a place near the wall, in case I needed to jump over it, and watched as the bull charged at people only feet from me. One guy from Louisiana pulled the bulls tail and swung him around and around. Soon after he was beaten in the face right on top of me. I was knocked over the wall and would have landed on my head had the people behind me not held me up. I had my camera out recording at the time and it´s all on film. The experience was incredble a high like no other. If I can face bulls I can face anythings. I have to go for now stayed tuned for the post bull running celebration coming when i find another cheap computer to use
I said, "Let´s go."
He replied, "okay."
I said, "I´m serious."
He replied, "Me too."
Later that day Tiburon and I ran into a fellow pilgrim who had American hip hop on his phone and we sat outside in the mid day sun sipping wine and enjoying the music. Jay-Z had never sounded so good.
The next day we were on a train headed to Pamplona. We talked about family, love, and heartache. It felt like we were old friends. We fell asleep on the train hand in hand, our heads leaned against one another.
In Pamplona everyone was in bright white with red bandanna around the neck. I must say that white is not an easy color to wear, but Pamplona wears white well. Walking into the city we were taken in by a group of traveling kids and their dogs. They were living out of a big white van. We rested a while with them in the shade and had some drinks.
The first night we took to the street with a bottle of rum and a 2 liter of cola, which is referred to as botellon in Spain. The city was crawling with people. There were random makeshift parades of people singing and charging like bulls. Around every corner was a different type of music. We talked with people, watched the fireworks and danced. At an outdoor area bumpin loud house music we befriended two Pamplonian girls who, after the music stopped playing at 6am, bought us hot bocadillos(sandwiches) and led us drunk and tired to the plaza de torres. We were falling asleep sitting up until the stadium filled completely with people chanting and doing the wave. Reminded me of Arkansas Razorback football games in Little Rock, but with even more gusto. On big screens around the stadium you could see the bulls running down the streets of Pamplona. As a bull would trampel someone the entire stadium would ohhh and ahhhh as one. The energy of the place was infectious. As the bulls entered the stadium, we were standing and cheering along with everyone else. Behind the bulls a huge crowd of people entered the stadium ready to face the bulls. It´s brutal in the ring. A fat naked man got tossed around like a rag doll. And one man was left unconscious. I had always wanted to run, but it looked scary as hell. I was thinking I would need some training and a red miniskirt first.
After watching the bulls we got breakfast and slept under a tree in the shade for a couple hours. The next evening came and we met a guy who had run with the bulls, and he encouraged me to run. It didn´t take much to talk me into it. I knew I may never have the chance to do it again. And even though I was scared I knew I had to do it. We hung with out with our knew friend and some of his friends and drank vodka and listened to a cover band that was quite good. Eventually Tiburon and I made our way back to the outdoor house music from the night before so we could dance. At this point I only had a couple of hours until the bulls ran. Tiburon danced and I layed in the cold grass wrapped in my jacket and tried to get a little sleep. Soon the light of the next day began filling the sky and I knew it was time. Tiburon thought I was crazy. He had no desire to run and didn´t understand why I wanted to. I just had to, and somehow I knew I would be okay. We slowly began making our way down the encierro, the path the bulls take. I couldn´t believe what I was doing. I sipped rum and coke and used a good bit of Rescue Remedy to help calm the nerves. As we got closer to the stadium I was thinking I just needed a friend to stand beside. Minutes later I heard a southern drawl and turned to see three huge men all in white with handle bar mustaches and beards( grown just for the run). They were from Texas a father and his two sons.
"You runnin" they asked me.
"You bet I am."
They were all well over 6 feet a firefighter, a marine and papa bear with his glowing white hair. I knew I was in good hands. I handed my things to T and gave him a great big hug. I knew I might not see him again. As he walked away the Texas boys asked if he really wasn´t going to run. Nope not even slightly tempted.
The Texas boys stuck me in a corner of a store opening and I was just fine with that. I had never been so glad I was a woman. A grown man couldn´t exactly push me off the wall or out of the corner.The police kept moving us back and forth down the street and every time the Texas boys made sure I had my spot in the corner. Suddenly people began running around the corner away from the stadium. No one knew what was going on. The Texas boys followed their English friends who said we would have to loop back around and up the street again. We all began running down the street paralell to the encierro. The streets were slick with grease. If you´ve ever been in the kitchen of a BBQ restaurant you know what I´m talking about. And since I had worked in a BBQ restaurant for years I was good at this. As we were running I spoted a restroom and I couldn´t hold it any longer. I ran inside knowing I would lose my friends. It was the longest pee of my life! To my great surprise Papa bear was waiting for me outside. We ran together looking for a way back to the encierro. Each street we passed was blocked. I was getting pissed I thought we had made a mistake and may not be able to run. We came to another street and I saw an opening in the blockaide. The four of us climbed through the blockaide. We got to the street and it was packed shoulder to shoulder. It was hot and the air was tense. I led us through the crownd until we could move no further. Papa bear always kept his hand on my shoulder making sure I was okay.
We had 15 minutes. Everyone around me was a foreigner, mostly from the Sountern United States(we´re a crazy bunch). Some people were laughing and chanting and some were so scared they could only stare out and pray they would be okay. We all swapped the stories we had heard and our strategies. These were to be the biggest bulls yet. Maybe next time I needed a thrill I would skydive or something! You could see the sweat beading up on everyone´s brows. I just kept using the Rescue Remedy and telling myself my body is resistant to all bulls and I run like the wind. The fact that I had only slept 3 hours in two days and had been up drinking all night I tried to block from my mind.
Finally, the police let us go and we ran to our desired positons on the wall. It was like being in a war zone running for cover. We were able to make it back to our original spot near the stadium. A couple from Missouri waited there with us. I was glad I wasn´t the only woman crazy enough to be doing this. We had only two minutes. "My body is resistant to all bulls and I run like the wind." I kept repeating it over and over. I dumped everything out of my pockets. I didn´t care what it was. I didn´t want anything to get in the way of my running. I heard the first shot go off and I knew the bulls were on the street. Crowds of people began running past. I couldn´t see a thing. My plan was to run when I saw a bull. I had my camera out filming like an idiot when papa bear began yelling, "there they are go go go!" And he gives me a shove. Oh shit I thougt and began running while trying to stuff my camera into my pants. A bull runs quickly past me, it only lasted a second. Luckily he wasn´t intersted in me. Then it was only people running beside me falling and pushing. I took papa bears advice and stayed close to the wall and kept my ears open for the sound of hoves. I made it into the stadium and was immediately smashed hard against everyone as the second round of bulls came running in. I found a place near the wall, in case I needed to jump over it, and watched as the bull charged at people only feet from me. One guy from Louisiana pulled the bulls tail and swung him around and around. Soon after he was beaten in the face right on top of me. I was knocked over the wall and would have landed on my head had the people behind me not held me up. I had my camera out recording at the time and it´s all on film. The experience was incredble a high like no other. If I can face bulls I can face anythings. I have to go for now stayed tuned for the post bull running celebration coming when i find another cheap computer to use
Bliss 1/2 way to Santiago
From July 7th ish
If you follow your bliss, you put yourself on a kind of track, that has been there all the while, waiting for you, and the life you ought to be living is the one your are living. Joseph Campbell
It seems that I have nothing but time these days. A very new feeling for me. I have been sitting pool side, eating bocadillos and gazpacho. I met the Ruru´s a few days ago. They are an inspiring couple who biked down the Camino and are waking back up it to Pamplona to see the running of the bulls. They travel the world and make and save money while they do it. They do this in various ways(all legal).They definately think outside the box. They encouraged me to get my shears and cut hair as I walk. And why not? They would have been my first two clients if I had shears.
My friend Jean, a retired woman from Canada, who sold her house and most of her possesions, put the rest in storage and came to the Camino. Her daugther thinks she´s lost her mind, but Jean is happier than ever. Jean said the nicest thing. She said your just going to have the best time on the Camino because you´re so open to everything. Yes I am. After chatting with Jean I walked over to my new singing group and sang on the plaza outside the Alburgue. There was a woman in her 70´s singing and dancing along with us. There were local kids lined up on their bikes around all of us. The woman hushed everyone and broke out in the worst acapello. We all politely listened. She went on for so long I had time to run up to my bed grab my camera and get some of it on video. Her daugther finall stopped her. It was hilarious. Maybe she drank a little too much of the wine being passed along!
If you follow your bliss, you put yourself on a kind of track, that has been there all the while, waiting for you, and the life you ought to be living is the one your are living. Joseph Campbell
It seems that I have nothing but time these days. A very new feeling for me. I have been sitting pool side, eating bocadillos and gazpacho. I met the Ruru´s a few days ago. They are an inspiring couple who biked down the Camino and are waking back up it to Pamplona to see the running of the bulls. They travel the world and make and save money while they do it. They do this in various ways(all legal).They definately think outside the box. They encouraged me to get my shears and cut hair as I walk. And why not? They would have been my first two clients if I had shears.
My friend Jean, a retired woman from Canada, who sold her house and most of her possesions, put the rest in storage and came to the Camino. Her daugther thinks she´s lost her mind, but Jean is happier than ever. Jean said the nicest thing. She said your just going to have the best time on the Camino because you´re so open to everything. Yes I am. After chatting with Jean I walked over to my new singing group and sang on the plaza outside the Alburgue. There was a woman in her 70´s singing and dancing along with us. There were local kids lined up on their bikes around all of us. The woman hushed everyone and broke out in the worst acapello. We all politely listened. She went on for so long I had time to run up to my bed grab my camera and get some of it on video. Her daugther finall stopped her. It was hilarious. Maybe she drank a little too much of the wine being passed along!
Friday, July 8, 2011
Fireworks...Burgos 490 km to Santiago
June 29th, 2011
Slowing down has been such a gift. I feel better, look better, and I´m able to actually read about and enjoy what I´m walking pass. Enrico is gone. After the three 30k days I had to leave the pack I started with. I tried to find him the night before I knew I would not end up in the same town as he. I checked his alburgue, but he was out taking photos. Giovanni and Luigi and I all hung out for awile, but Enrico never showed up and I had to get back before curfew. This is what life was like before cell phones! I enjoy the suspense. I swear I heard his laugh, but I couldn´t tell where it was coming from. I miss that laugh already. But I´m in Burgos today, there´s a feista, and it´s tapas for dinner tonight!
Later...
My heart is filled with butterflies and I want to run not walk. I´m laying in bed contemplating to stay or to go. My mind is racing with thoughts of money, love, and security. After weighing all the options, I know I can´t get on that plane. I want to stay. I love travelling and moving. I´m trying to work out the money part. I believe in the possibility of staying here bringing me more money and happiness than ever before.
At the moment I decided to stay in Spain fireworks began shooting through the night sky. My confirmation. It will all work out. I stood for a long time watching out of the second story of the alburgue. Feelings of peace were all around me. My heart ´s on fire.
Everyone has said I would meet someone, fall in love, and never return home. I have met someone and it´s myself and she´s screaming to go be free.
Slowing down has been such a gift. I feel better, look better, and I´m able to actually read about and enjoy what I´m walking pass. Enrico is gone. After the three 30k days I had to leave the pack I started with. I tried to find him the night before I knew I would not end up in the same town as he. I checked his alburgue, but he was out taking photos. Giovanni and Luigi and I all hung out for awile, but Enrico never showed up and I had to get back before curfew. This is what life was like before cell phones! I enjoy the suspense. I swear I heard his laugh, but I couldn´t tell where it was coming from. I miss that laugh already. But I´m in Burgos today, there´s a feista, and it´s tapas for dinner tonight!
Later...
My heart is filled with butterflies and I want to run not walk. I´m laying in bed contemplating to stay or to go. My mind is racing with thoughts of money, love, and security. After weighing all the options, I know I can´t get on that plane. I want to stay. I love travelling and moving. I´m trying to work out the money part. I believe in the possibility of staying here bringing me more money and happiness than ever before.
At the moment I decided to stay in Spain fireworks began shooting through the night sky. My confirmation. It will all work out. I stood for a long time watching out of the second story of the alburgue. Feelings of peace were all around me. My heart ´s on fire.
Everyone has said I would meet someone, fall in love, and never return home. I have met someone and it´s myself and she´s screaming to go be free.
Hornillos 471 km to Santiago
I woke up on my own after a good nights rest. I had a quiet breakfast. I checked the bed 2 times, I kept having the feeling that I left something. But I didn´t see anything so I slowly climbed the upward rising gravel path and was back onto the infamous Meseta where the golden wheat fields touch the crystal blue sky. I have heard grumblings about how hot and boring the meseta would be. But I like it. 5k down the road there was an Alburgue 100m off the road. I would usually pass it by in favor of one closer to the road, but I decided to go anyways. It was a little piece of heaven. In a place with no shade, it had a garden full of tall trees. On one side there was a rounded stone bench tucked into a small hill and a stream running through the middle of it all. The stream is said to have healing powers, and pilgrims, from long ago to now, soak their broken feet in it. Man I was wishing I had stayed there last night, but I thought no I needed to walk further than 5ks.
The hospitaleros had left coffee, sugar, and milk out for visitors. I don´t usually drink coffee, but I decided to partake. As I went to leave a donation I realized I had left my money belt 6k back in the town I had slept in. I remembered leaving it under my pillow. It had all my money, my credit card, and my passport in it. But I didn´t freak out I knew it would be there. But now I would stay at this place, and I would have to let go of Mille who planned to walk a few towns ahead that day. This was a gift telling me it was okay to slow down and to be alone. I walked the 6k to get my money belt and 6k back to my little piece of heaven. I got to walk the Meseta 3x that day. The peace and tranquility of it all was much needed.
The hospitaleros had left coffee, sugar, and milk out for visitors. I don´t usually drink coffee, but I decided to partake. As I went to leave a donation I realized I had left my money belt 6k back in the town I had slept in. I remembered leaving it under my pillow. It had all my money, my credit card, and my passport in it. But I didn´t freak out I knew it would be there. But now I would stay at this place, and I would have to let go of Mille who planned to walk a few towns ahead that day. This was a gift telling me it was okay to slow down and to be alone. I walked the 6k to get my money belt and 6k back to my little piece of heaven. I got to walk the Meseta 3x that day. The peace and tranquility of it all was much needed.
Altapuerca 511 kms to Santiago
From June 29th
Mille and I started our walks at different times today. We have been doing this and then meeting at break points and chatting. After lunch I was walking alone down a gravel path that looked bleached white. Pine trees were thick on each side of me. It was silent except for the occasional bird chirping.
I was wearing my newly acquired straw hat with cheetah print scarf wrapped around the outside. As I was walking a comes a guy on a bike "buen camino" we both say, then he stops 10 feet in front of me. He starts pumping up his tire. I notice it´s the guy I saw earlier at San Juan de Ortega. Tall, thin, with piercing blue eyes and disheveled black hair. It seems he has a slow leak in one of his tires. We talk for a moment and I wish him luck with his bike. He rides on saying he may see me sooner than later. Sure enough a few minutes later, I catch up to him again pumping air into his tire. I´m just cracking up at this point and ask him to please forgive me for laughing at his misfortune. I walk past and he rides up beside me. He wants to wait to change the tube until the next town so he pushes his bike and we walk and talk for some time. He´s from Manchester(best accent ever). Just graduated college where he did his thesis on a pilgrimage in England, which is where he ran across the Camino in Spain. He´s doing the Camino during his summer break then back to the UK to get his masters in international business. He can´t be a day over 22.
We had a great time laughing at ourselves and our inability to speak Spanish well. He´s a quick witted man. I eventually sat with him while he changed the tire, and we walked to the next town and stopped for a break. You could feel the attraction when we looked into each others eyes. He threatened to take me all the way to Burgos with him. But, alas, it was time to let him go. We waved goodbye, but not without him breaking down one last time in front of me. We were both smiling ear to ear and cracking up. I considered going to Burgos one last time, but that´s not what I wanted just then. There was a pep in my step as I walked the couple of kilometers to my stop for the night.
Mille and I started our walks at different times today. We have been doing this and then meeting at break points and chatting. After lunch I was walking alone down a gravel path that looked bleached white. Pine trees were thick on each side of me. It was silent except for the occasional bird chirping.
I was wearing my newly acquired straw hat with cheetah print scarf wrapped around the outside. As I was walking a comes a guy on a bike "buen camino" we both say, then he stops 10 feet in front of me. He starts pumping up his tire. I notice it´s the guy I saw earlier at San Juan de Ortega. Tall, thin, with piercing blue eyes and disheveled black hair. It seems he has a slow leak in one of his tires. We talk for a moment and I wish him luck with his bike. He rides on saying he may see me sooner than later. Sure enough a few minutes later, I catch up to him again pumping air into his tire. I´m just cracking up at this point and ask him to please forgive me for laughing at his misfortune. I walk past and he rides up beside me. He wants to wait to change the tube until the next town so he pushes his bike and we walk and talk for some time. He´s from Manchester(best accent ever). Just graduated college where he did his thesis on a pilgrimage in England, which is where he ran across the Camino in Spain. He´s doing the Camino during his summer break then back to the UK to get his masters in international business. He can´t be a day over 22.
We had a great time laughing at ourselves and our inability to speak Spanish well. He´s a quick witted man. I eventually sat with him while he changed the tire, and we walked to the next town and stopped for a break. You could feel the attraction when we looked into each others eyes. He threatened to take me all the way to Burgos with him. But, alas, it was time to let him go. We waved goodbye, but not without him breaking down one last time in front of me. We were both smiling ear to ear and cracking up. I considered going to Burgos one last time, but that´s not what I wanted just then. There was a pep in my step as I walked the couple of kilometers to my stop for the night.
Villafranca De Oca-Slowing down
From June 27th
Life is wonderful. I´m in the Spanish country side surrounded by huge rolling green hills. It´s one of the nicest Alburgue´s I´ve stayed in. It´s a old pirlgrim´s hospital that´s been converted to a hotel. The owner of the hotel has walked the camino several times and wanted to give something back. He has done just that. It´s fancy. With stone wall around the place and tall ceiling´s with chandeliers hanging from them. I´m looking out over the huge cathedral with bell tower and clock watching rain blow across the village. Every town has a church no matter the size. The population of this truck stop town couldn´t be over 100, yet the church and hotel are huge. Reminders of how popular this walk has been for hundreds of years. From high above in the sitting area, I´m watching rain blow across the village, out of wall sized glass windows. The thunder is shaking the whole place, and we had dinner by candelight because the electricity went out. It is very peaceful here so glad I got off the main pace.
Life is wonderful. I´m in the Spanish country side surrounded by huge rolling green hills. It´s one of the nicest Alburgue´s I´ve stayed in. It´s a old pirlgrim´s hospital that´s been converted to a hotel. The owner of the hotel has walked the camino several times and wanted to give something back. He has done just that. It´s fancy. With stone wall around the place and tall ceiling´s with chandeliers hanging from them. I´m looking out over the huge cathedral with bell tower and clock watching rain blow across the village. Every town has a church no matter the size. The population of this truck stop town couldn´t be over 100, yet the church and hotel are huge. Reminders of how popular this walk has been for hundreds of years. From high above in the sitting area, I´m watching rain blow across the village, out of wall sized glass windows. The thunder is shaking the whole place, and we had dinner by candelight because the electricity went out. It is very peaceful here so glad I got off the main pace.
Monday, July 4, 2011
Belorado
From June 26th, 2011
I started off yesterday before daylight. I wanted to get an early start so I could finish early and get some rest. But as fate would have it that didn´t happen. It was dark and we missed an arrow and ended up walking to the N-120. It added another few kilometers and I had yet another nearly 30k day. I´m staying at an alburgue with a nice pool and yet I´m too tired to enjoy it. Santo Domingo-too tired to walk around to see it. This is seeming more and more like my life back home. I push myself too hard and don´t have time to enjoy life or all the lovely people in it.
I started off yesterday before daylight. I wanted to get an early start so I could finish early and get some rest. But as fate would have it that didn´t happen. It was dark and we missed an arrow and ended up walking to the N-120. It added another few kilometers and I had yet another nearly 30k day. I´m staying at an alburgue with a nice pool and yet I´m too tired to enjoy it. Santo Domingo-too tired to walk around to see it. This is seeming more and more like my life back home. I push myself too hard and don´t have time to enjoy life or all the lovely people in it.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Santo Domingo 361 miles to Santiago/ 582km
From June 25thish, 2011
Today was a hard day. My feet are hurting. The past 2 days were 30 k days. It´s hot and there is little shade. With only 1 k to go I could hardly take another step, my feet ached! A group of pilgrims gave me water and I decided to stop and take a rest. A French man, who spoke no English, stopped and feed me lunch and more water. It gave me the strength I needed to continue on. I´m in the Alburgue now. It is a nice facility, very new. The offer an on sight medic, full kitchen, leather couches, t.v., and there´s a hen and rooster in the back yard. Which are for the nearby church and pertain to local legend of the Camino. Now I will rest and get an early start tomorrow as to avoid the afternoon sun.
Today I got rid of bobby pins and extra ponytail holders.
dopo...later
I sit in the warm evening air sipping a beer and listening to music. The bell tower of the cathedral is glowing in the night behind us. The vending machines here sell beer and wine. A wine bottle drops down just like a bag of M a& M´s! It´s also not uncommon for the alburgue´s to sell wine and beer. The wine is cheap and good. I could get used to this. I´m in the company of an Italian, Polish, German, and Spanish man. We are all communicating well, a gift only the Camino can give. A few hours rest and the company of fellow pilgrims and I´m feeling ready to face the day tomorrow. Enrico gave me a picture he drew from his journal. It shows the world with with an eye in it and a planet with wings(him) flying towards it. He says he wants to touch all of the world. Me too. Me too.
Today was a hard day. My feet are hurting. The past 2 days were 30 k days. It´s hot and there is little shade. With only 1 k to go I could hardly take another step, my feet ached! A group of pilgrims gave me water and I decided to stop and take a rest. A French man, who spoke no English, stopped and feed me lunch and more water. It gave me the strength I needed to continue on. I´m in the Alburgue now. It is a nice facility, very new. The offer an on sight medic, full kitchen, leather couches, t.v., and there´s a hen and rooster in the back yard. Which are for the nearby church and pertain to local legend of the Camino. Now I will rest and get an early start tomorrow as to avoid the afternoon sun.
Today I got rid of bobby pins and extra ponytail holders.
dopo...later
I sit in the warm evening air sipping a beer and listening to music. The bell tower of the cathedral is glowing in the night behind us. The vending machines here sell beer and wine. A wine bottle drops down just like a bag of M a& M´s! It´s also not uncommon for the alburgue´s to sell wine and beer. The wine is cheap and good. I could get used to this. I´m in the company of an Italian, Polish, German, and Spanish man. We are all communicating well, a gift only the Camino can give. A few hours rest and the company of fellow pilgrims and I´m feeling ready to face the day tomorrow. Enrico gave me a picture he drew from his journal. It shows the world with with an eye in it and a planet with wings(him) flying towards it. He says he wants to touch all of the world. Me too. Me too.
Outside of Logroño
From June 24th, 2011
Days are now marked by the city I´m in not the day or date. It´s hard to remember how long I´ve been walking or that I have a destination. Each day is marked by how many kilometers, how many fountains, and what is the alburgue like.
I saw kids protesting in Larassona last night. There were tents and signs set up in the town square, and I saw a large group of people yelling and carrying signs, but I went the other way. I was too tired to deal with that. It was yet another fiesta that night, people were everywhere, wearing trendy clothes and drinking. I heard police on the bull horn and drunkin ranting at 5 am. When I walked out of the town at 6 am, I saw a group of young people slowly staggering home. They were nearly carrying one girl who could hardly stand. I just smiled and thought man I´ve been there before. Enrico(with a c not a q) and I walked and talked yesterday morning and we were able to communicate quite well, mostly because he´s learning English lightening fast. He says I don´t like English, but for Nikki I learn. I´m learning Italian. Mille, Enrico and I always joke were speaking Ispanglish, and other various combos of the words. Haha he told me he loved me, but he meant like. A little lost in translation. I had said I love pizza, little bit different use of the word. I think he asked me to come visit Rome. Yes, thank you very much I would love to come to Rome. That´s a no brainer.
I got eaten alive by bed bugs last night and a sunburn, but other than that my body is great. I am strong.
Ran into my Irish friends again yesterday. I never stop laughing when they´re around. Such a fun group of guys. One of them always give me candy every time he see´s me then ask "didn´t your mother tell you not to take candy from strange men." I love it. I called him a naughty man and he said "why do you think I´m doing the Camino."
songs of the moment- "we will we wil walk you walk you" and from my friend Holly from Canada "i got 99 problems but a cow ain´t one"
who needs an i pod when my imagination provide´s all the music i need!
Days are now marked by the city I´m in not the day or date. It´s hard to remember how long I´ve been walking or that I have a destination. Each day is marked by how many kilometers, how many fountains, and what is the alburgue like.
I saw kids protesting in Larassona last night. There were tents and signs set up in the town square, and I saw a large group of people yelling and carrying signs, but I went the other way. I was too tired to deal with that. It was yet another fiesta that night, people were everywhere, wearing trendy clothes and drinking. I heard police on the bull horn and drunkin ranting at 5 am. When I walked out of the town at 6 am, I saw a group of young people slowly staggering home. They were nearly carrying one girl who could hardly stand. I just smiled and thought man I´ve been there before. Enrico(with a c not a q) and I walked and talked yesterday morning and we were able to communicate quite well, mostly because he´s learning English lightening fast. He says I don´t like English, but for Nikki I learn. I´m learning Italian. Mille, Enrico and I always joke were speaking Ispanglish, and other various combos of the words. Haha he told me he loved me, but he meant like. A little lost in translation. I had said I love pizza, little bit different use of the word. I think he asked me to come visit Rome. Yes, thank you very much I would love to come to Rome. That´s a no brainer.
I got eaten alive by bed bugs last night and a sunburn, but other than that my body is great. I am strong.
Ran into my Irish friends again yesterday. I never stop laughing when they´re around. Such a fun group of guys. One of them always give me candy every time he see´s me then ask "didn´t your mother tell you not to take candy from strange men." I love it. I called him a naughty man and he said "why do you think I´m doing the Camino."
songs of the moment- "we will we wil walk you walk you" and from my friend Holly from Canada "i got 99 problems but a cow ain´t one"
who needs an i pod when my imagination provide´s all the music i need!
Wednesday, June 22, 2011
Letting go Los Arcos 410 miles to Santiago
I walked with Enriqo today. I picked him flowers and we both wore them. He told me in broken spanish to learn italian. I told him to learn english. I have never wanted to speak italian more! I have a 1000 questions to ask him. We passed the fountain that pours wine instead of water, but it was early and it was closed. Later, I had a great lunch with Mille and Andre from Holand. He has been married for 15 years and the love for his wife pours out of him. Tears came to Mille´s eyes as he told us about her and their dog. I felt very motivated and inspired after we all shared our lesson´s learned so far on the Camino.
If the scenery began as humboldt it has surely began to remind me of Arkansas now. The last couple of days I have walked through pine forest and miles and miles of farm land, mostly wheat fields. There was even a thunderstorm yesterday. As everyone else ran inside, I ran to the door of the alburgue and watched it rain down big fat drops onto the narrow street. There were old stone buildings high above on each side. I knew there had to be a rainbow. So I walked through the warm rain with cobblestone street under under my feet and found a heavily arched stone bridge. My smile couldn´t be bigger. I stood at the top of it and looked out over the small village, and in the distance I found my rainbow. My friend from Quebec, who´s been walking since Le Puy, France, joined me and we talked about how the Camino teaches you to let go. Adios Caminos he called it. You meet people everyday some you walk with for days and then they are gone. You enjoy that person in the moments you have with them without control over when you will see them again. I´m still a little sad when I don´t see some of my favorite people, but then I meet new people walking the same path I am. Sometimes I am with many, and sometimes I am alone. I am learning to enjoy each of these moments. I tend to want to be around friends when I am alone and when with others I feel there are things I need to do. Instead I remember that this is the only moment there is, this is life now. I am quieting my mind to find the answers.
I am letting go of my possesions as well. The last couple of days I have not been able to adjust my pack properly. To cut down on weight I am tearing pages out of my guidbooks as I use them. The hardest so far has been my red travel pillow. I have been struggling with the decision to keep it or not. It had become my little security blanket(kinda like tom hank´s soccor ball lol). but today I leave it and tomorrow my pack will be lighter.
If the scenery began as humboldt it has surely began to remind me of Arkansas now. The last couple of days I have walked through pine forest and miles and miles of farm land, mostly wheat fields. There was even a thunderstorm yesterday. As everyone else ran inside, I ran to the door of the alburgue and watched it rain down big fat drops onto the narrow street. There were old stone buildings high above on each side. I knew there had to be a rainbow. So I walked through the warm rain with cobblestone street under under my feet and found a heavily arched stone bridge. My smile couldn´t be bigger. I stood at the top of it and looked out over the small village, and in the distance I found my rainbow. My friend from Quebec, who´s been walking since Le Puy, France, joined me and we talked about how the Camino teaches you to let go. Adios Caminos he called it. You meet people everyday some you walk with for days and then they are gone. You enjoy that person in the moments you have with them without control over when you will see them again. I´m still a little sad when I don´t see some of my favorite people, but then I meet new people walking the same path I am. Sometimes I am with many, and sometimes I am alone. I am learning to enjoy each of these moments. I tend to want to be around friends when I am alone and when with others I feel there are things I need to do. Instead I remember that this is the only moment there is, this is life now. I am quieting my mind to find the answers.
I am letting go of my possesions as well. The last couple of days I have not been able to adjust my pack properly. To cut down on weight I am tearing pages out of my guidbooks as I use them. The hardest so far has been my red travel pillow. I have been struggling with the decision to keep it or not. It had become my little security blanket(kinda like tom hank´s soccor ball lol). but today I leave it and tomorrow my pack will be lighter.
Monday, June 20, 2011
Pamplona to Puente la Reina 450 miles to Sanitago
Pamplona is a beautiful city it reminds me of San Francisco. I sat in the warm sun looking out onto their main plaza sipping Sangria last night. It was lovely. The mullet is no joke here. You see them every where in all shapes. I even spotted several dready mullets. Humboldt! your setting world wide trends!
The hostel was huge with 3 floors and all all modern beds and facilities. Which included washers AND dryers, internet, foot massasge and a full kitchen. And like most of the places you share a bathroom with the boys. But everyone is super respectful no pervs yet.
Enriqo and I have reached our conversational limits, hello and goodbye. That´s fine, I still get to sit back and watch him run around in his bikini underwear at night. It´s hot. Along with the rest of the Italian gang Luigi and Javonni, who I seem to always end up near in the Alburgue´s and on the trail. Nothing like a little eye candy to keep you motivated.
I got off to a late start this morning around 9 and picked up few things I needed and checked out the city. It took hours and I didn´t get back on the Camino until 2pm. It was lonely not seeing other pilgrims that long. And by two I was more than ready to get out of the city and back to the more rural part of the Camino. I walked for hours today alone. The scenery has changed from lush green hills and forrest to more dry dirt paths with tons of wheat fields. The land is drier and its getting freaking hot. There was hardley any shade today and sweat was just pouring out of me. Today I realized how strong I am. I walked from 9am to 8:30 in the evening most of it alone. My body has some aches and pains, but overall all I am doing very well. Except for the fierce farmers tan I working on!
The hostel was huge with 3 floors and all all modern beds and facilities. Which included washers AND dryers, internet, foot massasge and a full kitchen. And like most of the places you share a bathroom with the boys. But everyone is super respectful no pervs yet.
Enriqo and I have reached our conversational limits, hello and goodbye. That´s fine, I still get to sit back and watch him run around in his bikini underwear at night. It´s hot. Along with the rest of the Italian gang Luigi and Javonni, who I seem to always end up near in the Alburgue´s and on the trail. Nothing like a little eye candy to keep you motivated.
I got off to a late start this morning around 9 and picked up few things I needed and checked out the city. It took hours and I didn´t get back on the Camino until 2pm. It was lonely not seeing other pilgrims that long. And by two I was more than ready to get out of the city and back to the more rural part of the Camino. I walked for hours today alone. The scenery has changed from lush green hills and forrest to more dry dirt paths with tons of wheat fields. The land is drier and its getting freaking hot. There was hardley any shade today and sweat was just pouring out of me. Today I realized how strong I am. I walked from 9am to 8:30 in the evening most of it alone. My body has some aches and pains, but overall all I am doing very well. Except for the fierce farmers tan I working on!
The crazy american
What a night we had in Zubiri. After walking and napping, I found a group of friends outside a bar and was greeted with a big hug from lisbeth from Ireland. The whole gang was there Mille who says fuck a lot. Michael from Australia. Lisbeth´s husband Steve. Maria from Switzerland. Craig from Scotland who I didn´t know when I showed up, but we quick became drinking buddy´s. There was supposed to be a festival in the town square that night, so we were all getting our pre-festy drink on. I think they had all been drinking for a few hours and the mood was festive. I knew it was going to be a good night when Bob Segar came on!
Craig is the instigator of the group, getting everyone hyped up for the party and buying everyone shots. He offered me 100 Euro to go catch one of the goats on the steep hill across the street. I actually considered it a moment then decided I didn´t want to go to Spanish jail. After Michael and I told him we didn´t want any shots and he came back with cups half full of rum. Of course, I was chasing my rum with beer which Heinz from Germany thought was crazy, and I began to be lovingly be called the crazy American. I think my story about the longest fart ever heard, which was in Roncevalles Alburgue(pilgrim´s hostel), helped to seal the nickname. There must have been 50 people in one room, and I woke up early in the morning, while everyone else was asleep, just in time to hear a fart that lasted at least 30 seconds. It just would not stop. I never smelled anything so must have been far enough away.
Around 11 we heard music playing and stubled down to the square. The dj was playing musics but no one was out. So Michael and I decided we would get the party started with some dancing. This is when the beer glass that I stole with beer in in falls out of my jacket and crashes loudly to the ground. We just went on dancing. And after a while decided we must have been wrong about the festival and went back to our Alburgue for a few hours rest. We found out the next day the festival did not start til midnight and went until 5am. Bumpin music all night. We just didn´t know how the Spanish do it!
The next morning we were some of the last to get going. We walked the path at different paces, but throughout the day you pass the people you know, then you stop for a break and they pass you. Or you catch up with someone new and make a new friend.
Favorite moment´s of the night: MIille yelling ¨"what the fuck were they thinking, going over that mountain" in reference to the path the ancient pilgrims walked and we have been following.
Craig who is over 6 feet tall, big guy, and Michael shorter, skinny guy are standing side by side and simultaneously begin swinging their arms and singing salt and peppers "push it real good"
Craig is the instigator of the group, getting everyone hyped up for the party and buying everyone shots. He offered me 100 Euro to go catch one of the goats on the steep hill across the street. I actually considered it a moment then decided I didn´t want to go to Spanish jail. After Michael and I told him we didn´t want any shots and he came back with cups half full of rum. Of course, I was chasing my rum with beer which Heinz from Germany thought was crazy, and I began to be lovingly be called the crazy American. I think my story about the longest fart ever heard, which was in Roncevalles Alburgue(pilgrim´s hostel), helped to seal the nickname. There must have been 50 people in one room, and I woke up early in the morning, while everyone else was asleep, just in time to hear a fart that lasted at least 30 seconds. It just would not stop. I never smelled anything so must have been far enough away.
Around 11 we heard music playing and stubled down to the square. The dj was playing musics but no one was out. So Michael and I decided we would get the party started with some dancing. This is when the beer glass that I stole with beer in in falls out of my jacket and crashes loudly to the ground. We just went on dancing. And after a while decided we must have been wrong about the festival and went back to our Alburgue for a few hours rest. We found out the next day the festival did not start til midnight and went until 5am. Bumpin music all night. We just didn´t know how the Spanish do it!
The next morning we were some of the last to get going. We walked the path at different paces, but throughout the day you pass the people you know, then you stop for a break and they pass you. Or you catch up with someone new and make a new friend.
Favorite moment´s of the night: MIille yelling ¨"what the fuck were they thinking, going over that mountain" in reference to the path the ancient pilgrims walked and we have been following.
Craig who is over 6 feet tall, big guy, and Michael shorter, skinny guy are standing side by side and simultaneously begin swinging their arms and singing salt and peppers "push it real good"
Saturday, June 18, 2011
Ronsevalles to Zubiri 20. 4 Kms June 17th
Roncevalles is an ancient small pilgrim's town with a population of only 100. The residents here have been serving pilgrims since a hospital was built in the 12th century. As you come down from a steep wooded path you see this enormous old building that used to be the hospital, but has been converted to a pilgrims alburgue. The town has a very medieval feel to it. I went to mass that evening in an ancient medieval cathedral and tears came to my eyes as I thought of my grandma hicks and how proud of me she would be. All of us received a pilgrims blessing from the priest.
I realized that night that I don´t have to be in a hurry. There´s nothing to rush towards. My friends along the Camino will come and go. I need to create my own pace. This is true for the Camino and for my life outside of the Camino. The next morning I got off to a slow start. Up at 6:15 and on the road by 8. Nearly all of the other pilgrims had left by this time. I walked with a group of 6 retried Spanish men. Susa spoke English and we walked and talked awhile. After a few hours I see my friends Steve, Lizbeth, and Dennis who I met at Orisson. We sit outside a bar and sip juice and massage our feet. They head out and I sit with Tracy, Evonne, and Don from California. Kim from Australia. And two guys one from the UK and one from Dublin. We laugh and talk about marijuana. Ha! I thought coming to Spain maybe people wouldn´t know of Humboldt´s reputation!
All day I had been passing this handsome man who I noticed stopped to take pictures as often as I did. As I was leaving the bar I got the nerve to speak to him and first thing I blurt out is do you speak English not hello or how are you. He says no and I run away. Just down the road I stop at a store to grab a baguette for a sandwich and as I walk out of the store he is waiting for me on the path. I start this time with Spanish and ask him his name. He is Enriqo from Rome. We walk along together for the next few hours. He picks cherries out of a tree for me and together we spot falcons flying through the sky. He doesn´t speak English and I don´t speak Italian so we communicate with hand gestures, smiles, and broken Spanish. I´m in Zubiri now. Enriqo and I are both staying at the alburgue municipal along with many of the people I have met along the way. There is a celebration in the town tonight. We are all planing to have some cerveza and check it out. Life on the Camino is simply wonderful.
I realized that night that I don´t have to be in a hurry. There´s nothing to rush towards. My friends along the Camino will come and go. I need to create my own pace. This is true for the Camino and for my life outside of the Camino. The next morning I got off to a slow start. Up at 6:15 and on the road by 8. Nearly all of the other pilgrims had left by this time. I walked with a group of 6 retried Spanish men. Susa spoke English and we walked and talked awhile. After a few hours I see my friends Steve, Lizbeth, and Dennis who I met at Orisson. We sit outside a bar and sip juice and massage our feet. They head out and I sit with Tracy, Evonne, and Don from California. Kim from Australia. And two guys one from the UK and one from Dublin. We laugh and talk about marijuana. Ha! I thought coming to Spain maybe people wouldn´t know of Humboldt´s reputation!
All day I had been passing this handsome man who I noticed stopped to take pictures as often as I did. As I was leaving the bar I got the nerve to speak to him and first thing I blurt out is do you speak English not hello or how are you. He says no and I run away. Just down the road I stop at a store to grab a baguette for a sandwich and as I walk out of the store he is waiting for me on the path. I start this time with Spanish and ask him his name. He is Enriqo from Rome. We walk along together for the next few hours. He picks cherries out of a tree for me and together we spot falcons flying through the sky. He doesn´t speak English and I don´t speak Italian so we communicate with hand gestures, smiles, and broken Spanish. I´m in Zubiri now. Enriqo and I are both staying at the alburgue municipal along with many of the people I have met along the way. There is a celebration in the town tonight. We are all planing to have some cerveza and check it out. Life on the Camino is simply wonderful.
Orisson to Ronsevalles 19Kms 1400m.
I arrived in Orisson about 3 hours later. It is a small Hostel set in the side of the mountain with incredible views. I shared a room with Joo from Korea and another man and wife. After showering, I sat down to dinner at one long table. There were people from all over the world sharing food and wine. Maria, a 45 year old Spanish woman who lives in Switzerland, sat across from me. She is also doing the walk alone. I love her smile she is very sweet, and helps bridge the gap between the many English speaking pilgrims and Spanish. Lizbeth is beside me, she is doing the walk for the second time with her husband Steve they are form Ireland. Millie is a blond who timed her walked to the minute, minus breaks. Her sassy humor reminds me of my friends back home. Michael from Australia is a thin blond boy in his early 20s from Australia. We were competing for who traveled the farthest. We will all pass each other over the next couple days. They have become like my core family as I continue to make new friends each day.
I wake up to a surreal sunrise over the valley. We all eat a light breakfast of coffee and toast. Everyone is in such a rush and I get caught up in the excitement and feel the need to rush. We will walk over the Pyrenees over 1400m high and walk for over 19 kms. I start off with a rush and walk beside Maria and her friend Miguel. My pace becomes faster than theirs so I walk alone. Soon the sun disappears and a vicious wind and rain storm begin. The road is steep but doable. The wind so intense at times I had to brace myself from being thrown over the side of the mountain. My ears hurt form the sound of it rushing past my ears. The rain felt like needles piercing my body. My thoughts were if this is the worst it gets I can handle it. I laughed took it slow and steady and sang songs to myself. Eventually the sun came out, and I was rewarded with views of rolling bright green mountains, and blue sky's. After about 7 hours I made it to Roncevalles.
I wake up to a surreal sunrise over the valley. We all eat a light breakfast of coffee and toast. Everyone is in such a rush and I get caught up in the excitement and feel the need to rush. We will walk over the Pyrenees over 1400m high and walk for over 19 kms. I start off with a rush and walk beside Maria and her friend Miguel. My pace becomes faster than theirs so I walk alone. Soon the sun disappears and a vicious wind and rain storm begin. The road is steep but doable. The wind so intense at times I had to brace myself from being thrown over the side of the mountain. My ears hurt form the sound of it rushing past my ears. The rain felt like needles piercing my body. My thoughts were if this is the worst it gets I can handle it. I laughed took it slow and steady and sang songs to myself. Eventually the sun came out, and I was rewarded with views of rolling bright green mountains, and blue sky's. After about 7 hours I made it to Roncevalles.
St. Jean to Orisson 8 kms
St. Jean was lonely and ordering food was a disaster I waited too long to eat and that combined with jet lag and a lack of knowing any French was dangerous and embarassing. In the end I had a good cry gathered myself back up and ordered from the sweet girl in the deli near my hotel. The next day I had time to kill before starting my climb to Orisson. I strolled around the main town center, took pictures, and ate the most amazing croissant of my life light and buttery to perfection! I found a menu in English and ordered a Panini for the road and the lady behind the counter was an English teacher. We chatted for a while and I learned a few more French words after being sternly told I should try to speak French. I was trying, but I didn´t even know that she was telling me the price. Oh well. I will not be visiting St. Jean again. I had an hour to spare before starting so I went into a pizza shop and there I met my first Camino angel. A white haired German man who was driving his RV through the French "passes." He had the most playful blue eyes and an easy demeanor. His English was excellent, and over pizza we laughed and he assured me my journey would have it´s hardships. But I would have the time of my life, and tell my tales of the Camino to my kids and grand kids. After a couple of pictures and a big hug I walked through the cobble stoned streets of St. Jean passed under the stone archway and began my ascent of the Pyrenees.
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
St. Jean Pied du Port
Let me start by saying the keys on the keyboard are in the wrong place in France!
12am left Humboldt a bit sad. Sad about leaving my friends and feeling confused about how making the right decision can still hurt so bad sometimes. My mind was racing with scenarios where the Spanish words I needed failed me. But interspersed with slight panic were moments of thoroughly enjoying these last moment surrounded by some of the best friends a girl could ask for. I arrived in San Francisco after driving through the night and said my goodbyes to Miles and Alyssa, walked through security and the feeling of pure excitement overcame me. I have 41 days to do anything I want when I want. Priceless. I feel I can conquer the world. The support from my family has brought me much joy and confidence. My grandmothers were most precious. She said "Nikki your living your life like we all secretly wish we did. We will be living through you while your there." Time to go eat some French cuisine before I pass out. Tomorrow I walk from St. Jean to Orrison Hostel as I begin my climb of the Pyrenees.
12am left Humboldt a bit sad. Sad about leaving my friends and feeling confused about how making the right decision can still hurt so bad sometimes. My mind was racing with scenarios where the Spanish words I needed failed me. But interspersed with slight panic were moments of thoroughly enjoying these last moment surrounded by some of the best friends a girl could ask for. I arrived in San Francisco after driving through the night and said my goodbyes to Miles and Alyssa, walked through security and the feeling of pure excitement overcame me. I have 41 days to do anything I want when I want. Priceless. I feel I can conquer the world. The support from my family has brought me much joy and confidence. My grandmothers were most precious. She said "Nikki your living your life like we all secretly wish we did. We will be living through you while your there." Time to go eat some French cuisine before I pass out. Tomorrow I walk from St. Jean to Orrison Hostel as I begin my climb of the Pyrenees.
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